7.18.2010

Cool relief


How's the weather where you're at? Is it hot? I mean really, really sweltering? I'm jealous. But, I might be able to help you. First of all, is there some butter at the back of your fridge? Okay good, are there raspberries too? Excellent. Now, this might be tricky, but do you have an ice cream maker? Well, look at that, the stars are aligned! It's okay, you're gonna be alright, you're gonna be cool soon.

Brown Butter Ice Cream with a Raspberry Balsamic Swirl

This ice cream has one of the most decadent custard bases I've ever made. To balance the richness I swirled in some tangy raspberries laced with balsamic vinegar. A perfect pairing, if I do say so myself!

1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup (100g) sugar
1/2 cup (115g) unsalted butter, diced
1/2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1/8 tsp fine sea salt
1 1/2 cups (160g) raspberries, fresh or frozen
3 tbsp (45g) sugar
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Combine the milk, cream and about half the sugar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside.

In another saucepan (preferably one in which you will be able to gauge the colour of the butter as it browns), place the butter over medium heat. It will melt, then foam and, after about five minutes, begin to brown. Once it has a nice, nutty aroma and a deep golden-brown colour, remove the pan from the heat and add the lemon juice. I would suggest standing back at this point, unless you enjoy scalding butter burns. Allow the butter to cool until it is no longer hot to the touch but is still liquid.

In a large bowl whisk the egg yolks, the remaining sugar, and the salt together until light-colored and thick. Whisk in the browned butter very slowly, whisking vigorously so that the mixture emulsifies. Once all the butter is incorporated, slowly whisk in the warm cream mixture.

Pour the mixture back into the saucepan the cream mixture was in and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. If you have an instant-read or candy thermometer, this happens, temperature-wise, between 170 to 175 F. Strain the mixture into a clean bowl and cool it quickly by placing it in a larger bowl or a sink filled with ice water and stirring often. Once it is cool, cover and refrigerate overnight.

About an hour before you plan on churning the ice cream, make the raspberry swirl  by mashing the raspberries, sugar, and balsamic vinegar together with a fork. It should be juicy but still have a few nice-sized chunks of raspberries left. Chill until ready to use.

Freeze the ice cream base in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's directions. As you remove it from the machine, layer it in a storage container with spoonfuls of the chilled raspberry swirl mixture.

Makes about 3 cups.

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