1.18.2010

The creamiest of them all


Shit. I've gone and done it. A blog.

Well, there's no turning back now.

Hi, hello.

How are you?

Today has been a creamy day. Last night, while I was giving the contents of my fridge a little once-over, I noticed a carton of cream languishing on the top shelf. My eyes popped when I spotted the expiry date: January 18th. I swore I had until the 23rd, maybe even the 24th, to use that baby up. In fact, all sorts of possibilities had been churning through my head. There was that chocolate mousse, a decadent pie, or some ice cream options.

But push came to shove, today was January 18th and I had over a cup of cream to contend with. What's that you say? Just dump it down the drain? I'm afraid you don't know me very well. But that's okay, we're just getting started here.

About me. I'm not much of a waster. I'm the kind of girl who will go out of her way to find a recipe that takes care of those last two anchovies and the wilting bunch of celery at the back of the fridge. So, when I say I have a cup of cream to finish, by God, even if it clogs my arteries or queases my stomach, I'm going to finish it. I mean what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger. Am I right?

Just a few months ago I got my very first, very own waffle maker. It's been a tumultuous love affair. Every week or so, for about an hour, things get pretty hot and heavy. The kitchen windows steam up and, more often than not, I'm left smiling and satisfied. But while I have no complaints, the waffle maker gets a little disagreeable about all the time we spend apart, especially since she whiles it away with a motley crew of cooking contraptions in a dark, kinda dank cupboard. She has a point, I suppose.

To appease my waffle maker I've been making a lot of waffles, a lot of different ways. I've done them with sugar, without, with whole eggs, separated eggs, milk, buttermilk, eggnog, cornmeal, oats. I've got the ratios down pat. But then I stumbled upon an unusual specimen in M.F.K. Fisher's With Bold Knife & Fork. The recipe was curious for a couple of reasons. First of all, your typical leavening agents, baking powder or baking soda, are nowhere to be found. Secondly, there is cream. A lot of cream.

 

Anyway, I think you might like it. It's pretty simple. You separate a couple eggs and beat the heck out of the yolks. You don't stop until your arm is numb. You add a cup of rich cream alternately with sifted flour and things start to get interesting. A smidgen of melted butter gives the batter a glossy sheen and finally, as you fold your egg whites in, it becomes the perfect consistency. Trust me, I'm well-versed in wafflery. You dollop it in your waffle maker and the love affair is re-kindled!

And the waffles? They are remarkably light and creamy. The crust is the merest gold (like the skin of your blond friend come end of August) and the insides are a soft, snowy white. They are delicate and dainty. Lady-like.


You need to handle them with care. I warmed up some canned blueberries in syrup, adding a touch of rosewater. The heady perfume was just right but the juice left the waffles stained and soggy. I think a dusting of icing sugar would be nice or, if you really want to lap it up, some gently whipped cream.

Gigi's Waffles

2 large eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup (4 oz.) sifted all-purpose flour
1/8 cup (1 oz.) salted butter, melted

Separate the eggs. In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks hard, with a wooden spoon, for at least five minutes. Add the cream and flour, alternately, beating constantly. Add the melted butter, still beating.

Using an electric mixer, whip the egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold them gently into the batter. Cook according to your waffle maker's instructions and/or whims.

Makes about eight 4 1/2" square waffles

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